BLOG 82. Packing Tips
For the Boundary Waters
by Cliff Jacobson
I recently took my daughter Clarissa on a canoe trip in the
Boundary Waters. It was raining hard when we put in and the temperature was in
the forties. But no matter; we were dressed warm, had good rain gear, and
everything was secured in waterproof packs. But others were not so fortunate. At one portage, we saw a canoe with an
unprotected (soaking wet) sleeping bag on the bottom. Without
thinking, I quipped, “Hey, I guess you guys don’t believe in waterproof bags!”
A man mumbled back, “We’re on our way out so it doesn’t matter”. As soon as
they cleared the portage, my daughter said “Daddy, you were really cruel to
that man; they’re doing the best they know how.” “Yeah,” I replied. “The problem
is they don’t know how and don’t care to learn!”
An hour later, we found a nice campsite on a high hill,
rigged twin tarps and built a cheery fire. Clarissa told me again that I was
out-of-line.
It rained almost continually (an ice cold rain!) for the next three
days, so we stayed put under the tarps, venturing out only for water and
firewood. We were camped along a popular route--canoes cruised by like trains,
each searching for a place to camp. We watched them through binoculars. There
were wet clothes draped over thwarts, packs with their flaps ajar, unprotected
tents and sleeping bags. The show was quite entertaining!
On the fourth day of our trip, the sky cleared—just in time
for us to head home. As we rounded a bend, we passed a canoe going our way. Déjà
vu—there was a drenched sleeping bag on the floor of their canoe. “Guess you guys don’t believe in
waterproof bags,” blurted Clarissa. I stared at her in disbelief—we both broke out
laughing!
Admittedly, I’m a belt-and-suspenders man. I pack much the
same way for trips in the Boundary Waters as for those on whitewater rivers in Canada and Alaska. It
takes very little time and effort to do it right. And when the weather turns
sour, the pay-off is huge. Here’s my procedure:
I place rigid and breakable items (axe, saw, eggs, stove,
repair and first-aid kit etc.) inside a waterproof barrel or wanigan with a
secure lid. Personal gear (clothing, sleeping bag, tent etc.) goes in soft
packs. Any soft pack will do if you waterproof it right. The CCS (Cooke Custom
Sewing) Pioneer is my favorite (with a tumpline, of course), but I also like #3
canvas Duluth packs.
Some terrific hard packs. L to R: 5 gallon pail with waterproof gamma lid seal; CCS Quad-Pocket Barrel Pack; CCS foam-lined food pack; EM Wanigan (no longer manufactured); 60 Liter Barrel with Ostrom Outdoors harness; Adirondack pack basket inside #2 Duluth Pack Cruiser (extended flap) |
PACKING A SOFT PACK
I begin by lining each soft pack with a large yellow (now orange) waterproof pack liner, available from Piragis Northwoods Company. The seams of
the liner are electronically welded, and the roll and clip closure is 100
percent reliable. The bag is absolutely waterproof even with a compressed load.
If you capsize you’ll be glad you have one!
Next, I set a 4-mil plastic bag of similar size inside the
yellow liner. Its purpose is to
take the abuse of stuffing gear (which can abrade the WP coating of the yellow
liner) and to separate the tent—which may be dirty or wet—from clean, dry
gear. Alternatively, you can
substitute a giant 4-mil plastic bag for the yellow liner (I did it this way
for decades)—but only if you are very meticulous in sealing both bags.
Pack in horizontal layers. Why horizontal? Because horizontally placed items form to
the curve of your back; vertical uprights don’t.
Pack things in the reverse order you need them.
1.My sleeping pad goes at the bottom of my pack.
My rolled foam sleeping pad goes on top. If the route includes serious rapids, I “sandwich
pack” my sleeping bag as follows: sleeping bag goes into a stuff sack (which
need not be waterproof); this stuff sack goes inside a plastic bag--the mouth
of the bag is twisted and “goose-necked” then secured with a loop of shockcord;
this unit goes inside a second nylon stuff sack (which need not be waterproof).
Note that the waterproof plastic bag is protected on both sides by
abrasion-resistant nylon. For lake country canoeing (BWCA), the double-bag
security system is over-kill.
2.The stuff sack that contains my extra clothes and
toiletries goes next. I prefer to use a zippered CCS food bag instead of a
conventional stuff sack for this purpose because the zipper provides easier
access than a draw-string.
3. Next: Camp shoes in a plastic or nylon bag.
5. Next: Sweater or jacket and sundries.
6. Next: Tightly roll down the plastic “abrasion liner” then
set the tent (sans poles and stakes) on top. Place the stake bag inside the
tent pole bag and set the pole bag on top of the tent. Roll down and seal the
yellow waterproof bag. If the poles are too long to fit crossways in your pack,
set them under the pack flap and secure them as illustrated. Note that your
tent—which may be wet or dirty—is separated from the clean, dry gear below.
About Food: One partner may carry the tent while the other packs food. I
prefer NOT to pack food in a special pack because: 1) The pack will be too
heavy, and possibly impossible to rescue in a capsize; 2) it’s unwise to put
all your eggs in one basket. Better to spread good things around. All my food
is vacuum-sealed, water and odor proof. I divide food equally among my crew so
that the trip can continue if a pack is lost or damaged. Food bags are placed
at the bottom of the pack, followed by personal items. The diagram illustrates
the procedure.
www.cliff-jacobson.com
XXX
1 comment:
Great write-up by Cliff. Not mentioned, but surely included by him is his inside-the-tent bowl shaped extra plastic or vinyl floor, waterproofing the floor from the inside. In Michigan on loamy soil I also use a ground cloth outside to keep the bottom of my tent clean, although Cliff would likely not do so.
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