BLOG 39. Bent Blades are Best!

BLOG 39. BENT BLADES ARE BEST

By Cliff Jacobson

             

Straight paddles have their place—and that place is in whitewater, where palms-up braces and thumbs-up rudders are part of the game. And also, in show-off FreeStyle where everyone smiles and listens to music but no one goes anywhere.

             

But for flat-water cruising, bent-paddles rule, and that’s why every racer uses them. The diagram shows why bent-blades are more efficient (figure 3-1). 

C-1 speed racers are the exception to this rule.  They use long, straight paddles and a sky-scraper kneeling position.  How long do you think you can paddle this way and still retain your sanity? 

           

Here, in no particular order are why bent blades are best for cruising:

·      You need less effort to keep the canoe on course with a “pitch” or “J” stroke.  Why? Because the bent-blade runs partly under the canoe during the stroke, wheras a straight blade runs along side it.  It’s a canoeing axiom that the closer to the keel-line you paddle, the less directional correction is needed. 

·      Bent-blades are better for your body. There’s less twisting of the shaft and your hand during the stroke so carpal-tunnel and tennis-elbow aches are minimized.  This is a huge advantage if you will paddle a solo canoe for hours at a time.

·      You can use the “sit’n switch” stroke which big time racers prefer. Yes, you can switch sides with a long, straight paddle, but it’s not fast or pretty.

·      Paddling with a bent-shaft is best described as more “push down than pull back”. With a straight paddle it’s more “pull back”.  This saves your arms and back.

·      Cross-bow draws are more efficient because the blade has more reach.

·      Bow-draws in the solo canoe are more efficient because the blade has more reach.

·      The “rolled-ever” directional grip of the bent-paddle encourages a more comfortable hold.  You don’t have to clutch the grip as firmly as with a straight paddle.

Cliff, with bent-shaft paddle--standing on a "lump of coal": Teddy Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota

           

The best bent-shaft paddles are made of carbon-fiber and have twelve-degree bends.  Fourteen’s feel awkward to me.  Most racers prefer 12 degrees. The slightly shallower 12-degree bend encourages a more upright paddling position.  Heft a 14-degree paddle and "paddle through the air a few times".  The paddle feels unbalanced and "bent", doesn't it? Try the same with a 12-degree shaft. Note the improvement in balance and precision.

 Tip: the “pitch” and “J” strokes are easier if you use a longer paddle than the typical length used for racing.  Fifty-six inches works well in both my Bell Yellowstone solo canoe and in my Dagger Venture tandem canoe.

Cliff: BWCA, portaging with two 12-degree bent paddles

 

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com

BLOG 38. Top Ten Camping Items

BLOG. TEN TOP CAMPING ITEMS!

by

Cliff Jacobson

Newcomers to camping  are often put off by the all the things they “think they need” to have a good time.  Frankly, you can get by with very little, especially if you are an expert and know what you’re doing. Witness the tales of mountain men like Jim Bridger and Kit Carson who traveled desolate country for weeks with only a few well-chosen tools. The key here is well-chosen. These men knew what they were doing!  

Am I suggesting that you forgo essentials to save weight, space and dollars?  No!  George Washington Sears, who wrote under the pen name of “Nessmuk” in the early part of this century, wrote: “We come to the wilderness to smooth it.  Life at home is rough enough”.

If you have the right gear—and know how to use it—you will always (yes, always!) be warm, dry and in command, whether you’re camping out of your car or tent at a public camp ground, or hiking in the mountains or desert or canoeing in Canada. The important thing is to realize that “skills are much more important than things”.  So best not to start wildly buying stuff until you’ve identified what you really need.  A few good books on camping will get you started right and save you from spending unwisely.

Mountaineering books suggest you always carry these TEN ESSENTIALS when walking outdoors.

1. Map

2. Compass

3. Flashlight / Headlamp

4. Extra Food and Water

5. Extra Clothes

6. Sunglasses

7. First-Aid Kit

8. Pocket Knife

9. Waterproof Matches

10. Fire starter

This minimal list is for day trips on marked and beaten paths, not for general camping or where help is an airplane ride away. There’s a whirlwind of gear to confuse you: Here’s what I’d buy first:

Hilliberg Kaitum 3 tent/silicone nylon

BUY THESE THINGS FIRST!

1. A roomy nylon tent. Here’s the minimum I demand:

• Adequate size: I prefer a two person tent for one; a four person tent for two, etc. You’ll appreciate the extra space when rains come to stay. The slight additional weight and bulk of a larger tent is hardly noticeable.
• Double walls—a porous inner wall (canopy) to let body-produced moisture out and a waterproof outer wall (fly) to keep rain from getting in. I dislike single-walled tents because the single wall allows rain that gets through pin holes in the fabric to fall on you!

• A bathtub floor: The floor wraps up the walls of the tent like a bathtub and is sewn to the inner canopy several inches above the ground. There are no perimeter seams at ground level exposed to the weather.
• Twin doors for good ventilation and for shooing bugs out.
• The bug netting should be colored black.  Other colors reflect light into your eyes and make it hard to see outside.
•  

Tip:  Always use a plastic groundcloth inside your tent.  Make the groundsheet a foot larger than the tent all around so it flows up the side-walls a foot.  Now, ground water (rain) that seeps into your tent through worn stitching and fabric won’t drench you.  DO NOT put the plastic groundcloth under the tent floor as recommended by some “experts”.  Flowing ground water will become trapped between the plastic sheet and floor and be pressure wicked by body weight into the sleeping compartment. You’ll really have a sponge party!

2. A comfortable sleeping mattress. I prefer a nylon covered air-foam pad like the popular Exped, NEMO or Thermarest. Make a light wool, polyester or cotton cover for your pad.  The cover will eliminate the sticky feeling of “sleeping skin-against-plastic”, and it will protect the pad from punctures, add warmth and prevent sliding on the slippery tent floor.

3. A rain suit.  Avoid ponchos that dribble through. A two piece nylon rain suit is best. It can be waterproof/breathable Gore-tex® or coated nylon. 

Tip: Don’t use your rain coat for protection from wind.  Any garment you wear constantly will eventually develop holes that will let rain in. Save your rain coat for rain! Wear an unlined breathable nylon shell to stop wind.

4. Suitable clothing. Wool rules, followed by nylon and polyester.  Cotton is suitable only in July heat.  Note: synthetics don’t have as wide a temperature comfort range as wool, and they are less durable. If you want to go first class, check out the itch-free pure merino woolens by Ice-Breaker®, Smartwool® and KLAR Ullfrotte®.  They are awesome! Don’t leave home without sunglasses, sunscreen and bug dope. Bring leather gloves so you can safely feed the fire and handle hot pots.

5. Proper footwear.  You don’t need fancy hiking boots for general trail walking.  Tennis shoes work fine if you wear pure wool socks inside. Tip: Buy your shoes a half size larger than your daily work pair and wear two pair of socks—one medium weight, one ultra-light liner pair—inside.  Wear the liners inside out (seams away from skin) to prevent blisters from developing along the seams.

Cliff cooking. Primus Omnifuel stove.  Note cozy band on pot

6. Camp stove: White gas (naptha), propane or butane, your call.

Tip: Gasoline stoves burn hottest and are least expensive to operate. Propane stoves run hot but they’re heavy and bulky. Butane stoves are compact and light but they are expensive to operate and their fuel containers aren’t available everywhere.

7. Sturdy knife: fixed blade or folder.  If a folder, it should have a locking blade. I can’t imagine going camping without a knife!

Essential tools

8. A folding saw and hand axe. The saw is needed to cut small logs into short lengths for splitting; the hatchet is used to split the cut pieces into kindling size fire wood. Even wood purchased at campgrounds may need splitting to get at the dry heartwood inside, especially if the wood is damp.

           

9. Cook-set:  Dedicated camping pots are nice, but castoffs from home will work fine. Pots should all have covers. A tea kettle that can be handled with one hand is handier than a coffee pot that requires two hands to pour. 

10. Day pack: A light nylon day pack or fanny pack.  It should minimally include the ten essentials.

11. A welcome addition!  A 10 x 12 foot or larger nylon tarp, with pole(s), stakes and cord for rigging. Erect the tarp before you pitch your tent so you’ll have a dry place to work and play if rain begins. Some tarps have bug netting attached—an extra cost option that’s worth its bulk if you camp where insects are a concern. Be sure to bring nylon parachute cord  (I suggest 100 feet) and stakes to rig your tarp.  

A tarp can save the day!  This is a Cooke Custom Sewing "tundra tarp"

            Tip: If you’re going off the beaten path, choose a bright colored tarp that can be seen in an emergency. My favorites are those made by Cooke Custom Sewing (www.cookecustomsewing.com in Lino Lakes, Minnesota.

THINGS YOU DON’T NEED RIGHT NOW

Stick with camping for awhile and you’ll have everything (and more!) listed below.  But at the start, it’s better to spend your money on things you really need, and leave luxuries for last.  Every expert camper has his or her ideas on what is least important.  Here’s mine:

1. First aid kit: Serious first-aid kits are for “serious trips” off the beaten path. The best ones are expensive.  Colin Fletcher, one of North America’s best known long distance hikers, and author of THE COMPLETE WALKER, suggests a simple first-aid kit that will fit into a zipper lock plastic bag. You probably have everything you need in your medicine cabinet.

2. GPS: Nice but not essential.  Few people who own GPS units know how to use them.  Master map and compass navigation before you buy a GPS.

3. An LED headlamp is nice, but the  flashlight you already own will also light up the night. 

4. Stainless-steel or titanium drinking mug:  Prices range to more than 30 dollars! An inexpensive double-walled plastic mug with fitted cover (the kind you find at gas stations) works as well Tip: You won’t lose your cup cover if you leash it (fishing line works well) to the handle. Choose a brightly colored cup you can see amidst the forest green.

Your mug should have a cover and leash

5. Stainless steel or aluminum water bottle: A plastic soda bottle is lighter and works as well. 

6. Specialized camp clothing:  Gore-tex® and merino wool clothes are wonderful, if you can afford them.  If you can’t, you’ll do fine with discount store nylon, fleece and polyester. 

7. Entertainment/toys: Most people go camping to get away from the crowds and to experience solitude and the delicious sights and smells that go with living outdoors. The wilderness provides all the entertainment you need. If you want a full (real) camping experience, leave games at home. Instead, walk in the woods, climb the hills, sit by the stream and ponder the beauty of nature. Trust me; you won’t be bored!

8. Camping with children? Give children some cord, a note-book and pencil, a simple compass and magnifying glass (and a whistle for emergencies) and turn them loose to explore near camp. At day’s end, ask them what they learned. You will be pleasantly surprised. This is how native Americans taught their children.

XXX

                       

BLOG 37. Best Socks in the World!

BLOG 37.  BEST SOCKS IN THE WORLD

by

Cliff Jacobson

The Crescent Sock Company has been knitting fine socks in the sleepy little town of Niota, TN since 1902.  They are the oldest operating hosiery mill in the United States and one of the biggest sock suppliers to national chain stores.  Most people have probably worn a pair of Crescent socks at one time or other.

When Crescent discovered the growing market for high quality wool socks, they decided to get into the act. With over 100 years of sock-making experience and a mill right here in the United States, they believed that they could design and manufacture the best wool socks in the world, and sell them at a price that defied the competition.  The new socks (called FITS) were designed from scratch—engineers thinking well outside the box. 

When you first see a pair of FITS socks you may question if they’ll fit a human foot at all. They appear too small; the heel cup hangs curiously down and the ankles and center foot appear too narrow to conform to human feet.  But these socks fit “perfectly”—not too loose or too tight; they follow every curve of your foot, never compressing or wallowing in space.  They stay firmly in place no matter how you walk or run.  Unlike conventional socks, the toe pocket is turned horizontally to match your toes; there are no visible seams anywhere. The Achilles area—a serious wear point on most socks—is aggressively reinforced. 

FITS "Medium Hiker"

The company shtick reads: “They are constructed from two-ply, compact-spun, ultra-fine Merino Wool, providing the ultimate blend of softness and durability. Our F3 Technology delivers a unique form fit thanks to a deep heel pocket, specialized toe seam, and contoured leg — which keep FITS socks firmly in place. This means no more bunching, hot spots, or friction, regardless of the task at hand.”  

There are a number of different (and colorful) FITS models, each designed to fulfill a special purpose (hiking, running, casual wear etc.).  My favorites are the light and medium hiker crew socks which work for casual wear and serious hiking. I am so addicted to these socks that, for nearly a year, they have been the only socks I’ve worn.  I generally wear a pair for three or four days before I wash them. After many months, there is no visible wear; they look and feel like new; they haven’t stretched out and they continue to fit perfectly.

I just love these socks!

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com 

BLOG 36. Bobby

BLOG 36: Bobby

by

Cliff Jacobson

I first heard about Bobby in 1983, while canoeing the Hood River in the (then) Northwest Territories of Canada. In those days, there was a lot of exploratory mining north of 60 (the sixtieth parallel).  Bush camps and drill rigs sprung up in every suspecting spot and there was a constant drone of float planes to service them. For years following the mining rush, there were jobs galore for anyone who could tolerate uncivilized living.

Headwaters of the Hood River.  Start of our trip

Just prior to boarding our Twin Otter for the flight to Point Lake and the start of our Hood River canoe trip, Yellowknife Base manager Bill Gawletz pointed out a small knoll on our map, just east of Takijaq Lake, which was along our route.

            "This here's "Kid Creek" Camp," he said.  "We fly in there twice a month. They've got a radio and a chopper and can get you out if you have trouble.  The guys have been holed up there for two months now, so they're probably pretty bushed. Tell 'em I said they should feed you good."

Two weeks of strenuous travel brought us to Kid Creek Camp.  Located on a high hill, the stark white canvas tents were visible two miles away. Four men waited patiently on shore, eager for the diversion of new conversation.  A  mining engineer in his fifties appeared to be in command.  Nearby, was a muscular college kid from Saskatchewan who did the heavy work, a clean-shaven helicopter pilot named Brian, and a bushy, white-haired cook.  They said that Bobby, their young Inuit maintenance man and jack-of-all-trades, was gone for the day.

Hood River. Cliff Jacobson, Sue Harings and muskox

We meandered up to the cook tent where we were treated to blueberry and pumpkin pies, fresh-baked biscuits with jam and honey, coffee, tea, hot chocolate and candy bars galore. We offered to pay but they wouldn't hear of it. What they wanted was news from the south, and for the next two hours we deluged them with it.

Ultimately, the conversation got around to Bobby who was off in the bush fixing a drill rig.  They said he was  the best mechanic in the Territories--a quiet, likeable kid who could fix anything.  "We have a lot of fun with Bobby," chimed one man. Then he told me this funny story which I've roughly quoted:

            "Bobby's never been south, not even to Yellowknife. He's never even seen a paved road or tree, except on TV.  So we got to kiddin' around with him one night--told him that in California the trees are so big you can drive a car right through 'em, and so high that we'd have to string aircraft warning lights on the branches if we flew down there. Then, with a dead straight face, Dave here says there are frogs in those trees the size of husky dogs. 'Giant tree frogs, Bobby!' We've all seen 'em. Honest!"

Bobby bought the part about the giant frogs but not the huge trees.  And here's a guy who flies around on bush planes and can take a Cat apart with a screwdriver and crescent wrench!"

            "Tell 'em about the busted Skidoo," prodded one man. The story went something like this:

Bobby had  two vacation days coming, so he decided to combine these with the weekend and drive his Skidoo 120 miles to Bathurst Inlet to see his girl friend. "Be back in time for work, Monday," he grinned, matter-of-factly.

I hail from Minnesota, snowmobile capitol of the world, and when I told this story to the Polaris crowd, they just gawked with wonder.  Seems that no one in their right mind would snowmobile 120 miles across a frozen waste land without a support party. But the idea didn't bother Bobby at all. He missed his girl friend.  And hey, If the machine broke down, he could fix it.

The men at Kid Creek camp knew Bobby carried a very complete repair kit and was highly skilled.  So they gave him their blessings and said they'd see him in four days.

 Zero eight hundred hours Monday came and went.  So did 1000, 1200 and 1500. The men were worried. It was 32 below and blowing snow.  Quizzically, they looked at one another.  Bobby  knew the route to Bathurst by heart and he could handle any mechanical problem that might come up. Besides he was born and raised on the barrens and had a wealth of Inuit skills to fall back on. "He probably stopped and built a snow hut," assuaged one man. It was already too dark to fly, so there was nothing they could do.  If Bobby didn't make it by noon the next day, they'd radio for an airplane.

Mid-morning, Bobby nonchalantly tooled in on his snowmobile, as if nothing had happened.  He had broken an axle about 40 miles from camp.  The snow was blowing pretty hard so he built a windbreak, then set up his canvas tent over the machine, intent on repairing the damage.  When he saw he couldn't fix the axle, he hack-sawed off a piece of his rifle barrel and threaded and fitted it in place.  Bobby said it only took about four hours to get the Skidoo up and running again, but the wind was blowing so hard he decided to stay till it let up.

"Hope you guys weren't too worried about me," he said, with a toothy grin.  Then he shuffled his feet and softly told them it was okay if they docked his pay.

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com

BLOG 35. WindPaddle Sail Review

BLOG 35. Wind Paddle Sail Review

by

Cliff Jacobson

Cliff with WindPaddle sail: Kautikeino River, Norway. 14' pakboat

If you’ve ever attached a make-shift sail to a canoe, you know the problems.  Without a secure attachment to the rails, the sail may tear, the mast may break or the surging canoe may capsize. 

The common way of rigging a field sail on a canoe is to scroll a small tarp around two paddles.  The bow person anchors the paddles against his feet and takes firm hold of the shafts, closing or opening the scrolled sail as the wind demands.  The stern person rudders to hold the course.  This works marginally well as long as the wind is from behind and not too strong. Tacking is out-of-the-question—makeshift rigs go with the flow. 

Two summers ago, Alv Elvestad, owner of Pakboats (best folding canoes on the planet, in my opinion), invited me to join him on a canoe trip in Norway.  Our plan was to paddle (in solo canoes) three whitewater rivers in Norway and Finland.  There was plenty of open water along the route so Alv decided to bring some sails for the canoes.  I was skeptical because I’d sailed canoes alone when I was a kid, but this was with a dedicated lateen rig and secured lee-boards. I couldn’t imagine how one person could sail a solo canoe without a secure rudder and cleated lines.

Choose your color: red, yellow or blue!

When we finally encountered a long stretch of open water and a nice tail wind, Alv produced four “WindPaddle” sails, one for each of our solo canoes.  There are several models; ours was the “Adventure Sail”, designed for canoes and kayaks 14-18 feet long and winds of 5-30 knots. 

PaddleSails feature a tough, spring-like batten around the perimeter that holds them in shape. Coil the batten (the technique is easy but requires practice) and the full diameter of the sail (42 inches for the Adventure model) shrinks to 15 inches, or about the size and thickness of a large Frisbee. Pull the elastic release cord and the colorful nylon sail snaps into its full size and shape. 

Yes, you can tack with these sails!

Installing the PaddleSail on a canoe is easy.  Just snap the two security lines to the gunnels or a thwart ahead of the paddler. Place the continuous sheet line (cord) behind your neck—this may be the safest plan in high winds—or clip it to your seat. The unbreakable perimeter batten maintains the circular sail shape and allows the sail to be rotated for tacking. A large plastic window in the sail center provides a view of the road ahead. You sit (on the seat or floor) and hold your paddle (rudder) with both hands. The sail takes care of itself. If the wind force becomes more than you can handle, just lean forward and allow the sail to collapse and spill the wind—the sheet line slips easily off over your head.

Unlike most “instant” canoe and kayak sails, the WindPaddle sail opens instantly (like in two seconds!) from it’s coiled/compressed on-deck location, and it folds compactly for storage just as quickly. The center of force of the sail is low, about the same level as the paddler, which makes the sail extremely stable and the ride smooth and predictable.  A simple sail height adjustment, coupled with the continuous sheet line, allows the sail to be rotated.  This permits serious tacking.

 

In summary: The PaddleSail is the best touring canoe sail I’ve used on a canoe. It is lighter, faster into and out of action, and it provides better control than any makeshift or production “quickie” sail I’ve used. It takes up very little space in a pack. Most important, it is extremely safe in high winds.  On our Norway trip, we sailed our solo canoes down a curvy river for about four hours in variable winds of 5-15 miles per hour.  It was easy to tack around the curves and eddies.  We grew to love the PaddleSails and couldn’t say enough good things about them.

Specifications (Adventure Model):

Touring and Expedition boats 14’ – 18’
Target wind range – 5 – 30 knots (has seen 40+ knots!)
Target paddler – intermediate to expert
Off-wind sailing envelope - +180 degrees

Sail Data: Deployed diameter - 42" (106.7 cm.),  Coiled/folded diameter - 15" (38.1 cm.),  Sail area - 9.62 sq. ft. (0.8937 sq. m²)
Weight - 13 oz. (0.37 kg.)

$169.95 USD

Check out the PaddleSail at piragis.com.  It is made right here in the U.S.A.

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com