BLOG 74. Canoeing the
BWCA with Steve Johnson and Cliff Jacobson
by
Cliff Jacobson
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| Steve Johnson (blue T shirt, front); Cliff: blue T shirt, baggy pants |
In 2009, after three decades of outfitting and guiding canoe
trips in northern Canada, I threw in the towel, had a huge garage sale and sold
off most of my tripping gear. My plan was to start a “new life” of just
“canoeing and camping with friends. I’d seen my share of grizzlies and polar
bears, musk ox and caribou, wolves, whales, wolverines and seals. I was 69 and figured it was time to
climb a new mountain.
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| Cliff prepares supper |
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| Steve teaches 13 year old Jordan how to fillet fish |
So when Steve Piragis asked if I would lead a canoe trip
into the Boundary Waters for him, I said “no”! Then, he baited me with: “What
if Steve Johnson guides the trip and you go along for laughs?” I perked right
up when he said “Johnson”—for Steve Johnson is Piragis’s top guide. Years
earlier he joined me and a Piragis crew on a trip down the Steel River in
Ontario. It was unique because there were real rapids and we all paddled solo canoes. I’d done the Steel
several times beforet, but now, with Steve along, it would be much easier.
Two guides to share the work of one—how wonderful! During that trip I grew to really
like and respect Steve and hoped our paddles would cross again on future trips.
Johnson is a bull in the woods: he will carry a canoe and the heaviest pack
with seemingly no effort at all. He can make a one match fire in the rain;
catch lunker fish while others keep casting, and do it all with a great big
smile. I’ve known a lot of guides over the years, but I think Johnson is the
best.
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| Pictographs along the U.S. Canadian border |
To date, I’ve done five canoe trips with Steve—one on
Ontario’s Steel River, and four in the Boundary Waters. Each year, we do a
different route in the BWCA. Most recently (our August 9-15, 2014), we began at
Moose Lake (with a motor tow to Sucker Lake—thank goodness!) then paddled
northeast along the American side of the border to the South arm of Knife Lake.
For a different view coming back, we canoed the Canadian side of the border.
There were four days of leisurely but determined paddling and relatively easy
portages, and one layover day on a picturesque campsite. There were no bugs
(not one!) and near constant sun all week. It rained heavily one night but
courteously stopped just before dawn. I never took my rain gear out of my pack!
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| Cliff with CCS tarp, rigged for rain |
Steve and I each hang a GPS from the stern thwart of our
canoe. Mine records the route and
campsites. Steve’s, I think, notes EVERYTHING, including the position of every
school of edible-size fish and dry sticks of wood. Soon as we’re camped, Johnson
mysteriously disappears for an hour or so. When he returns, his canoe is filled
with fish and tinder dry wood. Fried fish and blazing fires are always part of the
daily routine.
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| Cliff, enjoying the view |
At my age (I turn 74 next month), I no longer relish the
heavy work of hauling back-killing packs and heavy canoes (fortunately, the
Piragis boats are very light!). I can still carry reasonable loads, but my days
of slogging 80 pounds on a tumpline are gone. Fortunately, there’s Johnson! He humps the heavy stuff,
fuels fires, fries fish and pontificates on nature. I make gourmet meals, model
wilderness skills—rig rain tarps, demystify GPS navigation, teach knots, tell
stories and smile a lot.
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| Have it your way is the rule on our trips. This participant preferred his hammock to a tent |
Steve and I consider our trip together “special”. Accordingly, we provide the finest food
and treats for our crew. There are fresh vegetables from Johnson’s garden, my
own scratch-made Italian spaghetti with dried hamburger (tastes just like
fresh!), fresh garlic, olives, celery, basil and oregano and two kinds of
mushrooms; a popular hamburger/raman/shittake mushroom vegetable stew, and my
signature dish-- steam-fried pizza with fresh onions, garlic, pepperoni,
zucchini and fresh mozzarella. And when the campfire and stars shine brightly, I pop
Orville’s finest corn with organic butter and sea salt—and there’s not a burned
kernel in the lot!
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| One of many picturesque campsites |
If you want to learn a lot and have fun a lot, join us on a
future Johnson-Jacobson canoe trip.
It happens just once a year, in August.
The equipment Piragis provides is the finest
obtainable. And it’s all spanking
new (each year, Piragis replaces used gear with new). Canoes are ultralight
Kevlar We-no-nahs and Bells; tents are high end NEMO’s and Sierra Designs;
paddles are $200 carbon-fiber bent-shafts; tarps are Cooke Custom Sewing,
ultralight sil-nylon; CCS and Granite Gear packs have waterproof vinyl-coated
liner bags. Everyone gets a comfy pillow, Nalgene liter water bottle and an
insulated mug, plus a full size folding chair with backrest so you can sit
while eating fish and solving the world’s problems. Participants also get a copy
of my book, Boundary Waters Canoe Camping, autographed by Steve and I.
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| The tarp goes up every night--rain or shine |
When we were sorting out stuff at the end of our trip, Drew
Brockett asked how much longer I plan to continue these trips with Steve. “As
long as I’m alive and can put one leg in front of the other, “ I replied. “And
when I can’t I’ll ride in the middle and you guys can paddle me around”.
XXX
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