BWCA Trip [the year of the frogs] by Renee

A young repeat-tripper's journal:

Chapter 1: The Drive to Ely

I was really excited for this year's trip, because for the first time it was just going to be Mom and me.  When we were planning the trip we picked out a special island campsite in Lake One we wanted to try. It was also going to be interesting because there had just been a big fire by that campsite. It started on Pagami creek. We planned on paddling to see where the fire had started.

Our drive was just like every other year. We got an early start and stopped at Tobies, it is our drive to Ely tradition. I usually fall asleep after Tobies, but this year I stayed awake and talked to Mom.  When we were driving through Cloquet we saw Gordy's High Hat Diner. We recognized the diner because it was on the food network show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. We need to remember that place for my brother Paul; he really loves that show. The drive wasn't bad; we got to Ely in time for lunch.

After lunch we went to Piragis to pay for our canoe, lifejackets, paddles and of course to see Drew. Drew had set-up a room for Mom and me at Canoe On Inn. After we checked into our room, Mom and I got some time to paint our nails for the wilderness. It's another Boundary Waters tradition. I even heard that painting your nails protects the skin underneath from the sun's rays. We are two of the three “girls in the mist”.  The "girls" always paint their nails fun colors.

Chapter 2: Put in Lake 1

We got up early to begin our adventure. Our tradition is to go to Brittons. This year we wanted to get an earlier start, because we were after that island campsite, so we broke our tradition. We tried Subway instead. It was good, it was satisfying, and it was fast.  We got our sandwiches and we were on our way to Lake One.

When we got to Lake One, Mom and I found out that taking the gear off the car was hard with just the two of us.  As we were putting into the water we saw some ladies taking pictures and we asked them to take a picture of us. 

It was a perfect day to paddle: no wind, sunny, warm and calm. Even Paul would probably enjoy it. He doesn't like rough water. We tried to find the island campsite. We talked to two canoeists who had just left it. They told us that they had left firewood stacked there. I was excited, my campsite was open and I wouldn't have to collect wood!  As we were looking for the site everyone we passed gave us different directions: "Go this way", "Go that way", "It's just over there". I felt tired, frustrated, and confused all at once. I wanted to get to a campsite soon! Then suddenly we saw our campsite from last year. We decided to go there instead of to the island one. I felt relieved because I was finally at a campsite. I also felt disappointed because I wasn't on an island and I had to get firewood. Then I saw utility rock [the big rock where we kept our utilities last year] and I felt content. 

Chapter 3: The Creatures

Because we have to, we set up camp. The camp hardly changed except that there were many more trees that blocked the paths to the peninsula. Even the latrine had a tree that blocked the short path. We set up our tent in the exact same place as before and we gathered firewood. 

After all that work, I went to the water's edge and found a little pond-like area with a couple of rocks protecting it from wind and stuff.  I found a little frog. When I tried to grab him, it was hard because he was slippery and kept squirming out of my hand.  After catching him a few times, the frog got used to me and he would sit in my hand for a while until I let him go. He probably liked my warm hand. I sure liked him. There was another frog that swam in the pond, and I played with him, too. I spent a lot of time playing with the frogs, because I really like animals. 

Speaking of paddling, the next day we found the island campsite that we had been looking for.  Wouldn't you know it, it was empty and the wood was there!!! We screamed, “NOOOO!” My mom marked the island in her GPS so that we have a chance to go back some other year. 

The canoe parking lot was really nice and sandy. We pulled right in nice and smooth. There were a ton of things to see on the island. We had lunch there and walked all around. The campsite had a lot of chipmunks and they were after our lunches. Some of them were fearless, almost sitting on our laps! With difficulty we managed to eat our lunches with out any of it getting stolen. The next day, we found two more campsites that looked good. We decided it was fun checking out new, cool campsites. 

Chapter 4: Other Times and Challenges in the BWCA

Each day was perfect. Sunny and calm and hardly any wind. The water was so calm it was like glass. The windiest day was probably 5mph the day we came out. Everyday was really fun but still had its challenges.  After we left the island campsite, we started paddling into Pagami Creek. Two ladies told us they had paddled through and it was fun. But when we tried, we got stuck in a lily pad forest. No matter how hard we paddled, we couldn't pass the pads. Either the ladies lied, or we took the wrong direction, or maybe we're weak! Either way, we turned around and head for our camp. 

The other challenge, which I hinted at earlier, was “Mr. Roots.” Mr. Roots is a humungous tree trunk with roots coming out the bottom. Mom and I had to climb over him and other trees to get out to the peninsula at our campsite.  All the climbing was worth it, because the peninsula has the best view of the lake.

My mom also had challenges setting up and keeping the fire going. Poor Mom. : (  But she tried really really hard.  I think next time she'll be able to do it.  Luckily she brought a camp stove so we had hot chilly dogs without a problem.

Chapter 5: Back to Ely

The paddle back to the car was easy since there was such little wind, and my mom remembered a short cut that Ms. Greger had shown her the year before. Then we had to put everything in and on the car. That was hard. Especially the canoe!  Part of it is because I'm still young and don't have my full grown-up strength yet, and because we're both so short. We had a hard time lifting the canoe over our heads. Again, Mom remembered another way to do it that Ms. Greger had shown her.  So, even though Ms. Greger wasn't there this year with us, she still helped us.  

On the way back to Ely, all we could think about was our hot showers and Dairy Queen. Because for three nights, all we had to clean ourselves with was warm water from a pan and some wipes.  First we headed back to Canoe On Inn and took LONG showers. After taking a shower, it felt like I was a new person. Next we ate at the Dairy Queen. Then we went to Piragis to tell Drew about our trip. Mom took a picture of me with Drew, another one of our trip traditions. 

BLOG 69. THE WOODY DUTCH OVEN IS BACK!

BLOG 69. THE WOODY DUTCH OVEN IS BACK!

By Cliff Jacobson

Woody Dutch oven

When I was a Boy Scout in the 1950’s, Dutch oven cooking was big. Our troop had two well-seasoned cast iron ovens that probably weighed 20 pounds each.  Those babies were heavy but they sure did produce great meals.  Mostly, we base-camped and day hiked out from there so the weight wasn’t an issue.  Except when we were on the move, we relied largely on the Dutch ovens for our meals.  From soups and stews to biscuits and apple pie—our Dutch ovens did it all. But oh how we wished for a model that was more portable.

Oven closed. Note the pot-lifer holes on top of the cover.. Woody makes a nice cast aluminum pot-lifer that fits the holes perfectly..

Cast aluminum Dutch ovens began to appear around 1960. They were modeled after their cast iron cousins—meaning they were round, had long legs to stand above the smoldering fire and a deep dish lid to contain hot coals. Space is tight around an open fire and these ovens weren’t very stackable. But everything changed in the early 1970’s when Woody Woodruff designed a rectangular, stackable cast-aluminum model that weighed just 7 pounds. The “Woody Dutch oven” became popular overnight and remained so long after it went out of production in the 1990’s. 

The Boy Scouts especially loved the oven and for many years it was sold in their catalog along with Woody’s popular book, “Cooking The Dutch Oven Way”, which was released in 1977 (a newer version of that book is now available). I had an early model Woody and liked it enough to recommend it in the first edition of my book, “Basic Eseentials of Cooking in the Outdoors (1989)”. I’m pleased to say it’s now back again!

Oven open

Recently, a new company has brought the Woody Dutch oven back to life. Here’s what makes the new “Woody” so unique:

Both halves stacked for easy packing

1.    It has attachable legs on the bottom which allow several ovens to be stacked and heated on a single fire. Longer legs can be added.

2.    When closed for baking it measures 10 inches square by 7 inches high. Packed size is just 10 inches square by 4-1/2 inches high.

3.    The cover can be used as a second pan for frying or boiling.

4.    The cover has a location where a hole can be drilled to hold a cooking thermometer.

5.    The sealed oven holds about eight cups of liquid—enough to feed a crew of four.

6.    No seasoning is required—just start cooking immediately. 

7.    The oven won’t warp no matter how hot it gets.

8.    It works on top of a gas or electric range, camp stove, and with a charcoal or wood fire.

9.    It will bake, boil or fry. Each two-quart lid can be used as a separate pot or skillet.

10.  Did I say that it’s beautifully made? The casting and finish are even better than the original! 

Two ovens stacked

If you love good food, you’ll love the Woody Dutch oven. It’s the lightest and most compact cast aluminum Dutch I’ve found.

It works on trail stoves

NOTE:  You can order your Woody Dutch Oven from Piragis online CLICK HERE or over the phone (item number WD01).  Call 1-800-223-6565

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com 

XXX

Ice Out conditions Afternoon May 13, 2014

Current Ice Conditions: Pilots were unable to fly today. As you venture out into newly opened water, remember the gasp reflex. No matter how well you can swim, please WEAR your lifejacket!

West Side:

• Basswood: Jackfish, Hoist, Wind, and Back Bays all appear open. Bailey Bay is not open but likely to change in the next few days. Moose Chain to Prairie all open.
• Burntside: east and west arms open, ice in channel and some in North Arm.
• White Iron, Bear Island, and Shagawa are open.
• Snowbank and east of Alice Lake are mostly still full of ice. Shallower bays in Snowbank are opening.
• Rivers are mostly open and lakes (except for a few large ones) are mostly open from Snowbank going west.
• Up the Echo Trail: Jeanette L. and Big L. are open.

East Side:

• Outside the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Crescent, Fourmile, Toohey, and Lichen are open.
• Mid- Trail is still socked with ice, like West Bearskin still pretty iced over --pretty slim chance of it opening by the weekend.
• Gunflint Lake the on the west side of the Gunflint trail its open up to Magnetic Lake but there is still ice on the shores.
• Round Lake Open
• Missing Link Lake open
• Gillis open
• The channel into Sag open – but can see ice beyond
• Seagull is open
• Ham Lake open- Cross River and Cross Lake- open
• Probably nothing open yet in the Vento area (Daniels, Duncan)
• Kawishiwi and Isabella Lakes are open. Parent Lake is probably open.

This report will be linked to the ice conditions alert on the Superior National Forest website:
http://www.fs.usda.gov/superior

Ice is Out 2014

Well as of this report on May 12, 2014, much of it is anyway.

Current Ice Conditions: Warm weather this weekend plus some rain and wind have made big differences. 
A short flight was flown today. Longer flights are scheduled for tomorrow and Wednesday if weather permits.
Ely Area:
Basswood: Jackfish, Hoist, Wind, and Back Bays all appear open. Bailey Bay is not open but likely to
change in the next few days. Moose Chain to Prairie all open.
Burntside: east and west arms open, ice in channel and some in North Arm.
White Iron, Bear Island, and Shagawa are open.
Snowbank and east of Alice Lake are mostly still full of ice. Shallower bays in Snowbank are opening.
Rivers are mostly open and lakes (except for a few large ones) are mostly open from Snowbank going
west.
East side:
Outside the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Crescent, Fourmile, Toohey, and Lichen are
open.
We hope to have more information and more open water in the next few days.
This report will be linked to the ice conditions alert on the Superior National Forest website:
http://www.fs.usda.gov/superior

Ice Out Conditions May 8th, 2014. No Fly Overs Available due to Fog.

Current Ice Conditions: Changes from yesterday’s report are in red. Pilots were unable to fly today so that information is the same. Last night’s rain made a difference on some lakes. 

From FS pilots yesterday. No flights today:  

Newton (between Fall L and Pipestone) is open.

Pipestone is 60% open.

Jackfish is still frozen.

Mud is 50%, Rice is 80%, and Ella Hall is 20% open. 

Garden is 75% open. 

Kempton is open. Pickerel is 50%.

Wood is starting to open. 

Fall—there is ice on the west end and by the 4 Mile Portage.

Most of Basswood is tightly frozen but Back Bay is 50%. Hoist Bay is frozen. 

Lakes 1 thru 4—shorelines are open but still 75% ice. May see some changes in the next few days. 

Kawishiwi R. and west bound there is some open water and may open by the weekend. Gabbro and Bald Eagle (southern end) are 25%. Three Mile is 60%.

Snowbank and going east most of the lakes are frozen tight to the shore. 

Reports from others:

The N. Grassy road into Mudro Lake is passable. 

Burntside and Shagawa very dark—some open water along shore and near currents. 

Whiteface Reservoir—ice pack shifting, about 50% open.

Moose Chain to Prairie Portage: a lot of ice still, some open water on south end of Moose. May break up in the next few days. 

Vermilion has some open water, but is mostly ice covered. 

Road Reports from Gunflint (Grand Marais) Engineer:

The Grade:  (170) is snow free, but really rough – even “rutty”.

You can’t get into Wilson Lake Campground and probably won’t be able to for at least a few more days, probably not by this weekend.

From Lake County 7, going on FR 166 (600 Road) to the 342 Road, (Two Island River Road) there is about 1-2” of snow at the intersection of 166/342, so no travel down on the 342 road for several days.

From Lake County Road 7 to Richey Lake Road it is still snow covered, but passable by pickup or four wheel drive, car travel would not be advised.

Temperance River Road (343) you could drive up the first four miles but lots of trees were down.  There is still snow on the road, probably only advisable with a pick-up truck.

Current Ice Out Conditions Ely May 7, 2014

Current Ice Conditions: Conditions are changing quickly. Rains, warmth, and wind could give fisherman much more open water by the weekend.

From FS pilots today:  

Newton (between Fall L and Pipestone) is open.

Pipestone is 60% open.

Jackfish is still frozen.

Mud is 50%, Rice is 80%, and Ella Hall is 20% open. 

Garden is 75% open. 

Kempton is open.

Pickerel is 50%.

Wood is starting to open. 

Fall—there is ice on the west end and by the 4 Mile Portage.

Most of Basswood is tightly frozen but Back Bay is 50%. Hoist Bay is frozen. 

Lakes 1 thru 4—shorelines are open but still 75% ice. May see some changes in the next few days. 

Kawishiwi R. and west bound there is some open water and may open by the weekend. Gabbro and Bald Eagle (southern end) are 25%. Three Mile is 60%.

Snowbank and going east most of the lakes are frozen tight to the shore.

Reports from others:

The road into Mudro Lake is in very bad condition. Low clearance vehicles and two wheel drive vehicles will probably not make it. 

Road Reports from Gunflint (Grand Marais) Engineer:

The Grade:  (170) is snow free, but really rough – even “rutty”.

You can’t get into Wilson Lake Campground and probably won’t be able to for at least a few more days, probably not by this weekend.

From Lake County 7, going on FR 166 (600 Road) to the 342 Road, (Two Island River Road) there is about 1-2” of snow at the intersection of 166/342, so no travel down on the 342 road for several days.

From Lake County Road 7 to Richey Lake Road it is still snow covered, but passable by pickup or four wheel drive, car travel would not be advised.

Temperance River Road (343) you could drive up the first four miles but lots of trees were down.  There is still snow on the road, probably only advisable with a pick-up truck.

Be Prepared for Cold Water Paddling

This article is intended to make you think before your paddle hits the water in cold weather.  It is not a survival manual.  If you intend on going out in Spring and Fall, you should always let people know what your route is and you should avoid the middle of big lakes and windy situations.  Stay close to shore and pack your common sense.

Canoe camping in this type of weather (some of you will be venturing out this week in early May) demands that you set off into the wilderness prepared for anything that could happen.  Hypothermia is a killer and traveling this time of year without extra clothing, warm layers and a reliable source for quick fire starting is unacceptable.

What does that mean?  About fire starting, you ask? Well, although we live in a modern world, the wilderness is still “wild” erness.  Right?!  If you get wet by flipping your canoe in water this time of year, you’ve got to get warm and dry and get warm and dry fast.  You’ll need to start a fire to do that.  You’ll have to get out of all your cold wet clothes and into warm, dry clothes.  This is why you need spare clothing in a waterproof bag.  This is also why synthetic, quick dry clothing and/or wool is preferred to cotton.  It can dry out by your fire faster along with you.  Cotton can be a killer when it gets wet and temperatures are low.

These are the facts… the water is cold.  In the case of many lakes, the ice is just going out or has only been out for a matter of days.  The water temperatures are in the 30s.  They won’t warm up to the 40s and 50s for weeks.

A reliable source for a quick fire needs to include multiple sources in different places on your body and kit.  All of these sources need to be packed in some kind of waterproof container.  The reason for having more than one is so that if one is compromised or lost you can still make fire.  To make a fire quickly and correctly you need to have the following:

Waterproof Matches (Stormproof Matches)
Lighter (windproof)
Firestarter (like safestart gel or wet fire tinder)
Traditional Tinder (dry birchbark, dry tree bark duff, cotton fluff, etc)

You also have to be practiced at not only starting the fire but building one and growing one.  It is a good idea to try this a few times at home in a safe environment (and a legal one) before you find yourself like one of Jack London’s characters with one match left trying to start wet wood under branches that hold enough snow to put out your fire… if you get it started.

Knowing how to find dead, dry branches, pinecones, birchbark and larger fuel on the forest floor quickly is key.  Thinking these scenarios out before they potentially end a trip or a life is good practice.

Of course this is only one aspect of being prepared.

If you are going canoe camping in the Spring or Fall,
you need at least the following preferably in a Sealine Pack or other Waterproof Pack that is always easily accessible (especially if your canoe flips):

Proper Footwear and good wool socks
Fire tinder, starter, waterproof matches, weatherproof lighter
(more than one set of fire starting material in multiple places)
Extra set of dry clothing in waterproof packs
Long underwear
Rain Gear, Fleece and Windshirt
Quick Source of High Energy Food
Emergency Blanket
and always WEAR your LIFEVEST!

There's more, like Boat Tape, Xtra Paddles, First Aid Kit, Xtra Warm Socks... but above is a short list that easy to remember.  Always pack your Common Sense!  Don't take chances.  Error on the safety side of things always.

Good, reliable footwear heads the list and includes:

Caney Fork Portage Boots,
Chota Breathable Socks and
Chota Hippies Waders

BLOG 68.Bergans Rondane FR/3P Tent Review

BLOG 68. Bergans Rondane FR 3-Person Tent Review

by

Cliff Jacobson

Rondane 3P closed to the weather

FIRST, SOME TENT TRIVIA:

Many American tents leave me wondering if their designers ever spent much time in the bush. They have exposed seams at ground level, short cap flies that allow wind to flap the fly, light-colored, finely woven bug netting that restricts vision and ventilation, and “plastic windows” which may not be durable over the long haul. Some models have so many poles, clips and buckles that you need a photographic mind to remember how to pitch them. There are exceptions, of course, but you’ll need a fair amount of tenting experience to recognize them.

The enduring American design is the “dome”.  Domes are spacious and luxurious and they have a small footprint, which makes them ideal where space is tight. But, by design, they are more time-consuming to pitch than A-frame or tunnel tents, which is a disadvantage if you have to pitch them in a storm. Inexpensive domes are terrible tents; expensive geodesic tents (like the venerable North Face VE series) are exceptional. But none of the domes are really fast to pitch.  And if it’s raining during set-up, the interior tent canopy will be soaking wet by the time you attach the fly.

Americans tents tend to highlight looks, luxury and superior ventilation. Scandinavian models emphasize wind-stability and stormproofing. Americans love their domes; Norwegians and Swedes prefer tunnels. Why? Because much of the best camping in Scandinavia is above the Arctic Circle, on the tundra where there no trees to break the force of storms.

Tunnel tents aren’t very popular in the U.S. Reasons include high price, often drab colors, and low profile (you can’t stand up inside them). The best European tents are made from ultralight silicone-nylon which is not fire-retardant, and hence, can’t be sold in U.S. stores, though they are often available on the Internet.

But silicone-nylon tents are lighter, stronger, more compact and better at shedding water than U.S. (polyurethane-coated) tents that do meet federal fire regulations. Fact is, in the unlikely event of a tent fire, silicone fabrics are probably as safe as fire-spec ones. Why? Because nylon will melt and drip before there is a sustained flame. And these drips will cause severe burns. All the world’s best tents are now built from silicone-treated nylon. 

 

Rondane: side view, door panel open. This is as far as the door will open

RONDANE 3P TENT REVIEW

Bergans of Norway is a highly respected manufacturer of outdoors gear. Their clothing, raingear and tents have proven themselves on the world’s toughest expeditions. Bergans has long wanted to enter the U.S. tent market, but they knew that as long as their tents used non FR fabrics, they couldn’t be sold here.  Enter the Rondane FR series tents which do.  Well, sort of—at least, enough to comply with U.S. fire specs. The fly and vestibule are built from ultralight silicone-nylon. The inner canopy is porous nylon with an FR finish. This is a smart way to build a tent for the U.S. market—the silicone outer structure reduces weight and the FR canopy makes sales legal.

 

Front view. door and vestibule vent is open

SLEEPING AREA AND VESTIBULE: The sleeping area is 63 inches wide and 91 inches long and consumes half the tent. Space is tight but doable for three, and luxurious for two. The permanently attached vestibule measures 71 inches. Entry is through a wide side door, controlled by a single, weather-protected zipper.  Unless you’re bringing the kitchen sink there’s more protected space than you can possibly use. In an emergency, two people could sleep snugly in the vestibule.

Bug-netting windows in the front, back and vestibule provide ventilation. Air flow slows to a crawl when you close the door. The interior tent (canopy) can be disconnected from the fly and used alone to save weight when insects aren’t a problem.

When bad weather threatens, close the door, hang the head-lamp and relax. There’s plenty of room to stretch out and do protected chores. The bright yellow interior canopy encourages smiles. Every seam and zipper is covered by waterproof fabric. The fly and vestibule hem stake right to the ground. There are twin stormlines on every pole and guy’s at each ridge.  Rig this baby right and it should stand firm in a 60 mile per hour wind. A real plus is that if you have to pitch the tent in rain, the connected waterproof fly will keep the porous canopy from getting soaked. They do stormproofing right in Norway!

 

Inside the Rondane. The bright yellow interior encourages smiles. 

EASE-OF-PITCHING: The Rondane sets up fast once you know the ropes. One person can do it in less than five minutes. But the directions for pitching leave much to be desired. A short paragraph says to thread the poles through the sleeves and stake out the tent, that’s all. But first, you must connect the canopy to the fly. There is no description of how to do this. Those who are familiar with European tents will have no trouble; others may wonder. The poles are color-coded but the directions don’t say why. Fortunately, matching color strips on the pole sleeves indicate what goes where. 

CONSTRUCTION QUALITY: The quality of fabrics, stitching and poles ranks A+. The tent comes with guy-out lines and clever line tighteners installed. The pin-type tent stakes are brightly finished hardened aluminum. The generously sized tent bag has a cord lock and compression straps. Everything is first-rate.

 

Vestibule door open. At night you won't see much of the stars

CONCERNS:

(1)  The dark green color blends in with the forest and heats up fast on hot, sunny days. In fairness, though, this tent was designed for use in Norway where the summer sun may burn for 20 hours a day. Camp one night in a bright orange tent in glowing sunshine and you’ll see why the Vikings like drab-colored tents.

(2)  There is just one entry at the side and a single zipper to control it. If the zipper fails you can’t close the vestibule and rain will pour in.

(3)  Tunnel tents are designed to be pitched head-on into the wind. A side entry, like the one on this tent, allows you to enter and exit the vestibule without wind rushing in. This is important if you’re camping on the tundra where wind speeds often exceed 50 miles per hour. But the price you pay for a side door is poor air flow.

(4)  Ventilation is adequate in cool weather. But pitch this tent on a calm day in the hot sun and you’ll roast. A second zipper on the far side of the vestibule door would allow the door to be rolled up and tied to the roof. Then, cool air would rush in and you could see the sky. Better yet, there should be two facing doors—one on each side of the vestibule, each controlled with twin zippers. 

(5)  The weight (on my scale) is exactly eight pounds—which may be a bit heavy for a tent that will be largely used by two. Using a lighter fabric on the floor might reduce some weight.

IN SUMMARY

The Rondane 3P is a superbly built, expedition-ready tent, capable of withstanding high winds and heavy rain. It snugly accommodates three people and is luxurious for two; it sets up acceptably fast and it’s compact when packed. The materials are first class.

Is the Rondane a good tent for the BWCA? Yes and no. Yes, for trips in late fall and early spring when wind, rain and snow are in the mix.  No, in summer when the marginal ventilation and the dark, heat-absorbing color may make it too hot for comfort. And when you’re lying in bed on a starlit night with the door and vents wide open, you won’t see much of the sky. 

Cliff Jacobson

www.cliff-jacobson.com

XXX